Being creatures of habit, my husband and I rarely venture into the unknown when it comes to lunchtime and weeknight dining. By the time we break away from whatever it is that we’re doing, we’re so hungry that we want a sure bet – a neighborhood haunt, someplace where we know the service is prompt and the food is good.
   
We found just such a place with Baci di Roma – an intimate eatery that graces the corner spot in a Ralph’s shopping center adjacent to Huntington Harbour. But there’s one exception: Both are better than good: They’re extraordinary.
   
The traditional Italian favorites are all on the menu – pizza (10 to choose from), pasta (19 preparations, not including specials of the day) and ossobuco. But you’ll find some inventive twists and clever pairings, such as the Meta e Meta (Alfredo tortellini and gnocchi in pesto served together) and the Risotto Don Juan di Marco (Arborio rice served with chicken, bell peppers and mushrooms in a saffron, rather than a Parmesan, sauce).
  
 I hear the filet mignon is exceptional. But I’m drawn to seafood, and I can’t get enough of Baci’s Fresh Fish Piccata (which is usually halibut, sautéed in a lemony white wine sauce with capers) and the salmon prepared alla checca (it’s usually only offered on the “specials” menu, but the staff will accommodate almost any request). My mouth waters just thinking about this preparation – junks of fresh juicy tomatoes are sautéed in olive oil with basil and garlic, then served atop the salmon with a drizzle of a sweet balsamic reduction.
    
Foodies will often caution diners not to order the fish specials during midweek, because the seafood might not be that fresh. But I’ve ordered the halibut and salmon here on a Tuesday, a Wednesday and a Thursday, in addition to the weekends, and it’s always been great. (On my last visit, on a Wednesday, the salmon had just arrived, fresh, that day.)
    
A side of vegetables or pasta is included. I always order the Penne Arrabiata – I like the heat. If you’re picky about the spiciness, though, be sure to state your preference as mild, medium or hot, and the chef will accommodate.
    
But it’s not just about the food – although, clearly in my book, that alone is worth the trip. There’s a warm, neighborly ambience you pick up the moment you walk in the door. This is a true neighborhood haunt. The owner, Mike McCord, can be seen there most evenings chatting with the customers – the vast majority of whom are regulars. Sometimes, you’ll see him still in his hospital garb (he works in the cardiac unit at Hoag Hospital). And best of all, the staff will recognize you after just a couple of visits, greet you with a smile, invite you to sit at your regular spot and inquire if you’d like to start with your usual choice of wine.
   
What a nice habit.

Baci di Roma
bacidiroma.com
5205 Warner Ave., Huntington Beach
714.840.1122
Hours: Monday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.