It was the best duck I’d ever eaten. That’s not to say I’m a connoisseur, but if I’m at a fine restaurant and see duck on the menu, I’ll usually order it. It’s always a treat, but it’s never been this good.
   
But L’Hirondelle is not just any fine restaurant. It’s in the heart of what I think is Orange County’s most romantic town, tucked along a historic stretch of Camino Capistrano in San Juan Capistrano.
   
When you step inside, you feel as though you’ve just walked into a cottage somewhere in the French countryside. Open the door, cross the threshold and you’re standing in the living room. You see a warm fire to your left, a wall of wines to your right and a piano against the wall behind you. The dining room is deceivingly small. Mirrors on opposite walls create an illusion of a much larger space.
   
The menu starts off with a list of aperitifs. Among the choices: a glass of the house Champagne, Pineau des Charentes (a traditional French fortified wine) and Kir Royale. And on the list of appetizers and entrées, you’ll find French delicacies such as Escargots de Bourgogne, Pate Maison, French onion soup and Lapin a la Liegeoise (rabbit simmered in a wine sauce with prunes), along with less intimidating choices (steaks, chicken and fresh fish).
   
I dined with my husband and two other friends. He ordered the filet mignon, served with Béarnaise sauce and artichoke hearts. My friends ordered the Escalope of Veal, also in a Béarnaise, and the Shrimp Maison (jumbo prawns sautéed in garlic butter, white wine and cream sauce). The steak was cooked beautifully – a nice caramelization outside; pink and juicy inside. A serving of wedge-cut potatoes with caramelized onions accompanied the entrée. The veal was thinly sliced and lightly breaded. The Bearnaise sauce gave a nice tang to the sweetness of the veal. While I didn’t sample the shrimp, my friend said it was wonderful.
   
Then there was the roasted duck. You can choose between an orange or peppercorn sauce from the regular menu, but on my visit, the chef was offering a special preparation with a blood-orange sauce, and it was beyond delicious. Every bite offered a complexity of textures and tastes. The skin was sweet and crunchy, the meat was moist and rich in flavor, and it practically fell off the bone. It was served with mashed potatoes seasoned with herbs and nutmeg – very unique and almost addicting.
   
We each cleaned our plate and regretted that we left no room to try any of the desserts, like the Belgian Chocolate Torte, Crepe du Jour, cherries jubilee or, of course, crème brulee. Still, I was as happy as a bird – or, rather, a swallow. After all, that’s the name of the restaurant.


L’Hirondelle
31631 Camino Capistrano, San Juan Capistrano
949.661.0425
Hours: Sunday through Saturday, from 11 a.m.
with dinner starting at 5 p.m.
lhirondellesjc.com