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Dining Review

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Sol Cocina

By Tina Borgatta
March, 2010

I’d wanted to try Sol Cocina for months, so when a friend suggested we get together for a drink, it was the first place that popped to mind. I imagined sitting on the terrace overlooking a quiet corner of Newport Harbor, sipping sangria and nibbling on food that tastes like something I’d order while vacationing at a luxury resort in Mexico.
   
I wasn’t disappointed.
   
The sun was shining, the water was calm, there was plenty of room on the veranda, and the sangria was sensational. The fresh fruit – a signature element of traditional sangria – is allowed to soak for four days in Bacardi Silver and Peach rums. Then red wine is added to the mix, with a splash of club soda just before serving. My only concern: how I was going to decide what to order. Between appetizers and entrées, there’s a lot to choose from. On the regular menu, you’ll find nine antojitos, nine tacos, six seafood creations and seven small plate entrées.
   
I was in the mood for tasting, so I focused on the appetizer menu, which features specialties such as Chipotle-Piloncillo Goat Cheese (the cheese is crusted with roasted peanuts and topped with a spicy-sweet syrup, served warm with crisp corn tortillas) and Chorizo & Mushrooms con Queso. The chorizo (a traditional spicy sausage) is a house recipe that’s made on-site, and the mushrooms are sautéed in garlic with the Mexican epazote spice and slivers of serrano chiles, then baked with a topping of three Mexican cheeses. It comes with a side of warm tortillas.
   
We chose to start with the Guacamole Sol. This is not your typical avocado dip. Added to the mix: hunks of mango, goat cheese, cilantro and toasted pine nuts. Oh, and there’s a dash of tequila thrown in, for an extra kick. It’s served with crispy corn tortillas for dipping.
   
Next up: the ceviche, made with raw sashimi-grade fish marinaded in lime juice, tossed with pico de gallo and serrano chiles, and served with slices of avocado and crispy corn tortillas. I could eat this stuff every day. Fresh and zingy, it really awakens the tastebuds.
   
We finished off our visit with the Shrimp Tacos Dorado. The tender shellfish are seasoned with chipotle, then stuffed in a corn tortilla with mango salsa, guacamole, Jack cheese and cilantro.
   
What a great way to experience Mexico at home.

Sol Cocina
solcocina.com
251 E. Coast Hwy. Newport Beach
949.675.9800
Hours: Sunday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Bar is open until 2 a.m., with a late-night menu available
Thursday through Saturday.




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