You know how fine wines only get better with age. Well, the same can be said for The Cannery, a landmark restaurant that’s been standing watch over the waterfront on Lido Isle in Newport Beach for more than 80 years. How fitting it is that the owners, the Salisbury family of the celebrated El Cholo and The Cat & The Custard Cup restaurants, have been in the dining biz for almost as long.

There’s nothing like spending a summer evening out on the patio, sipping wine and enjoying the restaurant’s selection of fresh seafood as electric Duffys and power boats float by or tie up along the public dock. The setting alone makes for a wonderful experience. So when you factor in the quality and creativity of the food and preparations, you’re likely to find yourself nearing a state of nirvana. (At least that’s what happens every time my husband and I go there.)

Don’t get me wrong; this isn’t necessarily a quiet place for the hoity-toity crowd. Upstairs, you’ll find a private dining room for large parties, along with a sushi bar and lounge that throw off an über-cool vibe.

Another cool factor: the juxtaposition of the gritty, rustic cannery-style exterior to the classic white-tablecloth setting of the downstairs dining room and the modern, underwater-themed décor of the upstairs lounge. (After all, it did once operate as a real fish cannery – throughout the Depression and World War II, even.) But I’m not talking about murals of whales on the walls. That underwater effect is subtle, created by hanging lights made of glass (really more like works of art) blown into shapes that are reminiscent of all kinds of sea creatures.

But let’s get back to the food. The menu is varied; you’ll find soups and entrées that range from traditional (Australian rack of lamb) to creative (Chili Charred Ahi Tuna with Wasabe Mashed Potatoes and Watercress Salad with Tamari Vinaigrette). I’ve tried just about everything on the menu, and I’ve never been disappointed.

The appetizers are just as good. Among my favorites: the Maryland Blue Crab Cake with Sweet Corn Flan and Citrus Beurre Blanc, the Almond Crusted Goat Cheese with Sundried Tomato Roasted Garlic Sauce and Herb Crostini, and the Pear Ravioli with Gorgonzola Cheese, Muscat Grapes and Candied Walnuts.

The extensive wine list provides a nice range of choices for pairings with each course. And here, the wine is as good as the food.

The Cannery
3010 Lafayette Road, Newport Beach
949.566.0060
Hours: Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. (bar stays open till 9:30 p.m.); Monday through Wednesday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. (bar stays open till 10 p.m.); Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. (bar stays open till 10:30 p.m.); Friday and Saturday, 11:30  a.m. to 10:30 p.m. (bar stays open till 11 p.m.)
cannerynewport.com