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Dining Review

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Zov's: an Orange County mainstay

Named after its owner and celebrated executive chef, these chic, cozy eateries serve up a wonderful variety of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine.

By Susan Belknapp
June, 2009

Whether you’re dining at the popular Zov’s Neighborhood Café in Irvine or Newport Coast, or the original Zov’s Bistro and Bakery in Tustin, you’ll find yourself in a chic venue with exquisite Middle Eastern- and Mediterranean-inspired cuisine. Zov Karamardian, owner, author and executive chef, has built a tremendous following over the years, and she continues to have hands-on day-to-day involvement with her restaurants.
    
Recently, for instance, the bakery counters in the Irvine and Newport Coast locations have been scaled back in order to expand the bars. This coincided with more value-driven lounge prices at happy hour and the creation of more intimate seating.
    
With plush booths and muted light, the bar beckons you to linger with friends over drinks and appetizers, or perhaps stay and enjoy a full dinner.
        
The evening my companion and I dined at Zov’s Bistro in Tustin, we started by sharing calamari rings sautéed with
garlic, fresh herbs and tomatoes in a white wine cream sauce. I love this presentation, and its marriage of the calamari texture and scampi flavor.
        
The red and golden beet salad with baby watercress, goat cheese and toasted pine nuts was a sweet, crunchy medley of flavors.
        
A sampling of Pan Roasted Skate Wings followed. Served with sautéed cauliflower, baby Dutch potatoes, golden raisins and a red wine vinegar reduction, they were rich yet light and flaky – a fantastic mix of flavors.
     
Since my friend and I were sharing, we tried the roasted New Zealand rack of lamb with Gruyere potatoes gratin, and a roasted garlic and pomegranate sauce – a unique and inspired presentation. The sweet-tart contrast of the sauce perfectly complemented the resonant flavor of the tender meat.
    
We found room to revel in warm bread pudding with ice cream. One bite and it was obvious how Karamardian built her reputation on her knack for pastries.
    
Zov’s regularly has prix fixe menus for lunch and dinner; it is a great way to sample some culinary gems for a reasonable price. Check zovs.com for the latest offerings.


Zov’s Bistro
Bakery & Café
17440 E. 17th St., Tustin
714.838.8855

Zov’s Café
Bakery & Bar
• 3915 Portola Pkwy., Irvine
714.734.ZOVS (9687)
• 21123 Newport Coast Drive
949.760.ZOVS
Hours vary by location. All are open for breakfast on weekends, and Tustin’s Bakery & Café serves breakfast seven days a week.
zovs.com






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