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Dizz’s As Is Diners can taste dishes that span generations at this cozy Laguna Beach restaurant. Dinner at Dizz’s As Is is as much about a good meal in a cozy, distinct wood-shingled house from the 1920s as it is about traveling through generations of the Pitz family. Marcel and Monique Pitz opened the restaurant along South Coast Highway in Laguna Beach in 1977. The family’s Belgian traditions weave through the menu and décor like a stately oak’s roots through soil. For starters, the dining room’s walls are painted pink. Lace curtains shade the windows. And there’s a charming little patio for dining. And then there’s the welcome nibble given to customers on arrival – a homemade pate. It’s a soft, mild and spreadable mixture of pureed chicken livers and pork parts, served with thin squares of toasted bread and a shot of vermouth. While the surroundings may be quaint, the menu is as sophisticated – and varied – as it gets. Appetizers, for example, include escargot, and steamed muscles and clams, as well as barbecued chicken wings, curried shrimp and garlic bread. Dominic Pitz, son of Marcel and Monique, serves our party of three this Sunday night. Descriptions of each entrée are printed on individual laminated sheets. Details of roast duck, rock Cornish game hen, veal marsala, osso bucco, veal piccata and cioppino make our eyes dance. All dinners include soup or salad. Gazpacho is an ideal refresher on a warm evening. The chilled soup features a soothing tomato broth that blankets tiny cubes of crunchy cucumber, red bell pepper and tomato. A tender filet mignon, seared then baked ($39.95), comes with an appealing béarnaise sauce – a combination of egg yolks and clarified butter whisked into a creamy emulsion and livened with chopped tarragon. The beef is joined by a swirl of Duchess potatoes, pleasantly-crunchy zucchini chunks lightly dressed in flavorful marinara and a soft, delicate baked tomato slice that’s topped with Parmesan-flavored bread crumbs. Fish specials this night include tilapia stuffed with crab, shrimp, mushrooms and curry ($30.95), and local white sea bass with a lemon, caper butter sauce. We split two desserts. One is a stately wedge of Belgian whipped cream berry pie ($8), recipe of Pepere Pitz, Dominic’s grandfather. An almond crust encases fresh berries (strawberries with a combination of blueberries, raspberries and/or blackberries) suspended in billowy whipped cream, flavored just enough with vanilla and sugar. The berries look like stones in a rock fireplace. A dense chocolate chip Kahlua bundt cake is the other dessert. A layer of ganache and whipped cream top a piece of the cake with chocolate chips distributed throughout. Divine. –Bryce Alderton Dizz’s As Is 2794 S. Coast Highway Laguna Beach 949.494.5250 dizzsasis.com Bar: Tuesday through Saturday from 5 p.m. Dinner: Tuesday through Saturday from 5:30 p.m. Attire: Casual Reservations: Accepted Hashigo Sushi The popular Japanese delicacy doesn't get any better than this. One doesn’t normally expect to find a sophisticated restaurant in a shopping center between a grocery store and a dry cleaner with 1980s decals on the windows, but as soon as I stepped inside Hashigo Sushi, the frosted glass, clean lines and muted green tones took me away from busy Main Street into a cool and classy restaurant. We began our meal with four lovely cuts of yellowtail sashimi arranged on a bed of seaweed and daikon. The presentation told me the food would be good even before I tasted it. And my eyes didn’t deceive me. The flesh of the fish was melt-in-your-mouth soft, but with just enough firmness to carry flavor. Next came the spicy scallop rolls with smelt egg, citrus mayo and avocado. The taste of the avocado with the scallops melded together beautifully. The salmon and white kelp rolls were innovative and delicious. From the outside in: marinated, crunchy cucumber skin; white kelp; salmon; avocado and green onion; and cream cheese – all topped with caviar. I loved the combination of the crunch and tang of the wrap, with the softer and sweeter salmon and cream cheese. For our last sushi hurrah, we went with Hashigo’s signature sampler plate. It consisted of seared albacore with garlic ponzu, tuna with miso and mustard sauce, albacore with a jalapeño puree sauce, and salmon with mango sauce (which had a nice, but inexplicable, floral note). Our favorite by far was the albacore with the jalapeño puree. The sauce left the mouth feeling refreshed and the palate clean. We finished the meal with banana spring rolls served with red bean and green tea ice cream (also with the same mysterious but delicious floral note). Service was attentive, and the thoughtful presentation of each dish made the meal all the more enjoyable – definitely a place worth returning to. –Rachel Marcus Hashigo Sushi 18685 Main St. Huntington Beach 714.848.1111 hashigorestaurants.com/sushi Open mind at Opah The 9-year-old Aliso Viejo restaurant brings seafood and more under one roof – and patio. Explore the menu at Opah Restaurant & Bar in Aliso Viejo, and you’ll find a generous offering of preparations inspired by cuisines from around the globe. But you don’t need a passport. A hungry stomach and good company will do just fine. Owner and Chef Marc Cohen persuaded his partners to open Opah nine years ago. The restaurant, in the Aliso Viejo Town Center, is named for the moonfish once viewed as a symbol of good luck by the ancient fishermen who caught them and gave them away as a goodwill gesture. It offers plenty of seafood choices, including nine dinner entrees, along with indoor and outdoor seating. On a weekday summer afternoon, the patio is a relaxing place to enjoy lunch. It seems other folks have the same idea. One can order off the dinner menu at lunch, but there are certain entrées that are only offered for daytime meals, the fork-and-knife blackened fish tacos ($14) is one of them. Two grilled flour tortillas wrap pieces of blackened mahi-mahi. The tacos come with two salsas: a pico de gallo with tomatoes, and a papaya salsa with tiny pineapple and red bell pepper cubes. A sweet vinaigrette dresses mixed greens, which top the tacos along with thin-sliced cucumber half moons. The papaya salsa compliments the spiced mahi-mahi. At Opah, which also has locations in Rancho Santa Margarita and Irvine, you can order a sandwich or salad for dinner (including a half-pound Kobe beef burger with caramelized onions for $12). Or share a few appetizers with the group. Thai barbecue pork, mango and Brie spring rolls ($12) come three per plate. The fried appetizers contain shredded pork, mango and melted, gooey Brie cheese. The accompanying thin, marinated julienne vegetables (including red bell pepper and zucchini) taste fresh and sweet – a midday treat to entice the palette. – Bryce Alderton Opah • 26851 Aliso Creek Road, Suite C Aliso Viejo 949.360.8822 Lunch and dinner: Sunday through Thursday, 1:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. • 22332 El Paseo Rancho Santa Margarita 949.766.9988 Lunch and dinner: Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. • 13122 Jamboree Road (The Marketplace) Irvine 714.508.8055 Lunch and dinner: Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. opahrestaurant.com As fresh as the sea Scott’s Seafood delivers detailed presentations in a polished setting. The look, feel and food at Scott’s Seafood is as crisp and clean as a gentle Southern California breeze off the Pacific Ocean. The Costa Mesa restaurant on Bristol Street across from South Coast Plaza has a sophisticated, yet casual, elegance. White-trimmed windows give it a polished feel, and a skylight in the main dining room invites the sun to cast a natural spotlight on whatever culinary creations might be on the tables. And the food is just as delightful as the surroundings, due in large part to the creativity of Executive Chef Michael Doctulero, who returned to Scott’s open kitchen after helping open Blue Coral Seafood & Spirits in Fashion Island. On my visit, I arrived in time to sample the selection of appetizers and premium martinis that are served in the lounge and bar from 3 to 6 p.m. on weekdays. The Salmon Spring Rolls are delightful. Lightly fried wrappers encase pieces of marinated fish, still rare in the middle, along with spinach, carrots and sesame oil. One bite releases a burst of flavor and textures, and the sweet mint-onion dipping sauce is a tasty accompaniment. The calamari appetizer here offers a refreshing variation from the traditional crisp-fried versions served with marinara sauce. These tender squid come with tomato chunks and green onions in a sauce with Worcestershire and Tabasco. For my entrée, my server, Tony, suggested I order the Chilean Seabass Kasuzuke ($32), the top-selling main course. The sea bass is marinated overnight in a mix of fermented sake paste, mirin (sweet rice wine) and water, which creates an uniquely wonderful infusion. It’s sautéed, then baked. A sweet red jalapeno pepper relish tops the fish, which is served with sushi rice and sautéed spinach. Little pepper pieces border the moist fish like jewels. Other main courses include Lemon-Rosemary Roasted Chicken with whipped potatoes and asparagus ($21) and a number of beef choices. For dessert, the Steamed Lemon Soufflé ($8), served with sugar cookies and raspberry sauce, makes for a wonderful finish. The flavor is bright, without being too tart. For something a little more rich, there’s the cheesecake-stuffed beignets, served with fresh strawberries, sliced almonds and a caramel sauce ($9). – Bryce Alderton Scott's Seafood 3300 Bristol St. Costa Mesa scottsseafood.com Lunch: Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Brunch: Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner: Monday through Thursday, and Sunday, 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Happy Hour: Monday through Friday, 3 to 6 p.m. Attire: Casual to semi-formal Live entertainment: Thursday through Saturday Capistrano calm Relaxing bistro in Marbella Plaza livens up with well-presented food in intriguing combinations. Bistro 311 is unassuming. The restaurant – one dining room and a few outdoor tables – is tucked in the Marbella Plaza. But step inside, and you open yourself to a menu of intriguing California cuisine created by owner and Chef George Valdovinos. Take a seat and settle in for a soothing, calm dining experience. Watch as the restaurant’s skilled cooks work their magic in the open kitchen, preparing selections from a menu that includes Maryland Blue Crab Stuffed New Zealand Seabass with butternut squash hash, and Cumin Rubbed Lamb Strip Loin with herbed gnocchi and a blueberry-mint glace. On my recent adventure, I order the caprese salad ($9) as a starter. Three asparagus spears gently rest atop a tower of thick-cut slices of mild, soft mozzarella and crisp, cool tomatoes. Flavor comes from tiny basil ribbons a pleasant, slightly sweet and smooth balsamic dressing. For dinner, a generously portioned Pan Seared Halibut filet sits atop sautéed edamame (soybeans), cradled by two grilled cantaloupe wedges, with a creamy, golden-hued coconut-curry sauce ($26). The fragrant curry floats into the air, along with Lionel Richie’s voice over the speakers. This dish is a treat for both the eyes and taste buds. The seasoned, crust skin of the fish gives way to flaky white flesh. The soybeans are cooked al dente, and the cantaloupe is served right from the grill – a delicious combination of ingredients. –Bryce Alderton Bistro 311 31105 Rancho Viejo Road, Suite C7 San Juan Capistrano 949.218.3311 bistro311.net Lunch: Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner: Tuesday through Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. |
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