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Why Ambiance Matters

A restaurant's atmosphere is more important than you think.

By Christopher Trela

Think of your favorite restaurant. Got the mental image? Bet you weren’t pondering the cuisine or the service. An essential aspect of the restaurant that brought a smile to your palate was probably the often-overlooked yet critical component of any dining experience: ambiance.

Ambiance is that illusive feeling, mood, character or tone that helps define a restaurant’s distinct atmosphere. Cuisine is important, and so, too, is service. But ambiance is an important part of any dining experience.

How important? Ask renowned restaurateur Charlie Trotter, who has a 3-month waiting list of people anxiously anticipating a visit to his Chicago restaurant.

In the book “Lessons in Service from Charlie Trotter,” author Edmund Lawler describes the interior of Trotter’s restaurant, located inside a century-old brownstone, as being “gently lit and subtly appointed with mahogany wainscoting, custom-woven wall fabric, silk draperies and simple wall sconces. In sharp contrast to the austerity of the rooms are riotously colorful floral displays situated on marble-topped serving credenzas in the heart of each room. The tables have been meticulously prepared. Ex-quisite flatware, Wedgewood china bearing a distinctive T, and Riedel stemware so delicate that annual breakage costs exceed $40,000 are set against the canvas of crisp, white linen tablecloths.”

Yes, Trotter’s food is legendary, as is the service. But if he didn’t have the ambiance to match, the entire dining experience would be less than expected. 
     
Ambiance comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. There is upscale ambiance, often defined by formal table settings, leather booths and elegant décor. There is themed ambiance, represented by anything from the classic ’40s diner atmosphere of Ruby’s, and the wildlife-infused Rainforest Café to ethnic enclaves such as Habana (candlelit Cuban cuisine) and Memphis (Southern-style cuisine). There’s also eclectic ambiance, a category that includes Tu Tu Tango and Gypsy Den Café.

Even bistros such as Kimera Restaurant (part of the Dining as Art collection that combines excellence in cuisine, atmosphere and service), Wildfish Seafood Grille (seafood and steaks served in a casual and contemporary environment), Stonehill Tavern at St. Regis Resort (SoCal casual chic that boasts laid-back luxury and stylish renditions of classic tavern food), and Zov’s latest location in Newport Coast (featuring exposed ceilings and the liberal use of warm wood tones), all exude an unmistakable classy-casual ambiance.

“Whenever I go out to eat, I always take into account a restaurant’s ambiance and whether it fits my needs for a particular occasion,” says Laura Van Deudekom of Costa Mesa. “For example, I love French 75 in Laguna Beach because I know that when I go there, the ambiance will be upscale and classy yet casual. That’s how I feel when I go there, and after I leave, the experience lingers in my memory. I like that, because it makes me want to go back again and again.”

The success of French 75 is no surprise to restaurateur David Wilhelm, whose goal with his signature restaurant was to blend impeccable service and delectable cuisine.

Ambiance does not only define an experience, it can transport diners to another world.

“For me, ambiance can take you to another place,” notes Kelly Dickson of Costa Mesa. “I love to travel but never have the time or money. When you visit an eclectic French bistro, a place like Rainforest Café or even a traditional Mexican food joint, you can feel as though you’ve been on a vacation to another country.”

“Ambiance can also bring you to a heightened sense of social status,” adds Dickson. “While you may not be ordering Cristal champagne with steak and lobster, you can still go to a nice restaurant and order soup and salad while being treated like a celebrity in beautiful upscale surroundings. When the china, crystal and staff look their best, and there’s nice music playing in the background, and the décor is well thought out, anyone would feel like a million bucks as they dine.”

A restaurant such as Rainforest Café re-creates the sights and sounds of a tropical rain forest, complete with the sound of cascading waterfalls plus incredible visuals of lush vegetation and animated and live wildlife. And there’s Ruby’s, which features white Formica tables, soda fountains and colorful 1940s posters. (The Laguna Beach location has several vintage 1940s automobiles parked in front of the restaurant, while the Costa Mesa locale has a suspended miniature train track and train, plus old pedal cars placed throughout the restaurant.)

“Ruby’s has a real fun atmosphere in which to enjoy a meal. It represents the good old days, which were represented by families,” says Ruby’s founder, Doug Cavanaugh.

That’s the key. Families are drawn to these restaurants because their feel conjures an upbeat ambiance that guarantees an enjoyable experience. Of course, it helps that the cuisine is tasty.

Still, a downer is a downer.

“Who wants to be eating a filet cooked to perfection in a cafeteria under fluorescent lights? Well, probably somebody, but not me,” laughs Cindy Reynolds of Irvine. “I want ambiance. I need ambiance. The restaurants that I go back to are the ones with ambiance that I enjoy. Why settle for less?” t

Christopher Trela is a regular contributor to Churm Media. Read his “Diner’s Blog” at ocmenus.com.