Dining Reviews

However, OC can claim a number of resort hotels with restaurants that are pleasantly ambient, accessible and accommodating. 



Shades Restaurant and Bar, at the Waterfront Hilton Beach Resort in Huntington Beach, is one of these. In a city with enjoyable restaurants that range from the scruffy to the splendid, Shades may be slightly off the conventional radar if you’re not a hotel guest, but it’s worth a visit. 



Atmosphere is a big sell here. Shades is a relatively compact place, located on the pool level of the hotel, but it’s laid out in such a way that the indoor-dining area, the patio and the bar feel distinctly separate. 



On the night of our visit, the bar was particularly lively, with patrons seated and standing, but cocooned behind a well-placed partition. The main dining area, which features hanging lamps with long cylindrical shades that cast the room in a deep-orange glow, overlooks the pool area and the ocean beyond. 



We were greeted in a friendly, professional manner. The service was genuine and amicable, but crisp, economical and never intrusive. When my friend asked for recommendations, our server responded quickly. 



Chef Jeff Littlefield’s menu is not huge, but the variety is commendable. The meat menu features familiar cuts, including Colorado lamb chops and a Kobe beef “Drug Store” burger. Specialties include Arctic char, orecchiette pasta and roasted chicken. 



Entrees come with their own sides, but individual side dishes are also available. These include, sautéed asparagus, car- melized sweet cream corn, green beans with shallots, polenta and sautéed mushrooms. This can be a real boon for the light eater who would be happy with an appetizer and a vegetable side. 



So can the “Bistro” section, which includes an upscale mac and cheese, a tomato-and-cippolini onion soup, a roasted chicken-and-brie sandwich, steamed mussels and charcuterie-and-cheese plates. The wine list offers a thoughtful variety, with an extra-long list of vintages by the glass. 



We began by sharing the baked goat cheese dip. The cheese is whipped to a light consistency, mixed with tomato, herbs and garlic, and served hot, with thin slices of toasted baguette for dipping. It’s creamy and tangy, a fine bit of comfort food that sets up the meal to come. 



On our server’s recommendation, my friend ordered the roasted blue-nose sea bass. It is a good combination of subtle taste and solid consistency, lean and substantial, and roasted to a very delicate crunchiness on the outside. It’s perfect for those who often shy away from seafood. 



The equally subtle flavors of the cannellini-bean ragout-and-artichoke confit salad were fine, but might have been dialed up a bit to bring a touch of zing.



My Snake River Farms kurobuto pork rib chop – a mouthful when read out loud – was deeply browned and thoroughly cooked. Browned with equal skill were the rissole potatoes. The frisee salad with cider dressing was an excellent complement to the chop. OCM 



Shades Restaurant and Bar, 21100 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach 714.845.8444